There are many ways to make beaks and claws for needlefelted birds. This is my favorite method.
1. Here are the wire feet of my felted Northern Jacana (and a pencil for scale). So far, I've wrapped the feet in blue embroidery floss (and they look pretty good, if I say so myself), but they are in dire need of a jacana's long, pointed claws.
2. It's time to make some claws from Sculpey. Roll out a tiny slug shape like so. Try to avoid leaving fingerprints on the roll.
3. Using an X-ACTO knife (the sharper, the better), cut identical claws from either side of the roll. Saw back and forth a little as you cut; that way, the base of the claws will not flatten. Use the blade to pick up the tiny claws (see how the claw sticks to the blade?), then brush the claws gently onto whatever surface you'll eventually bake them on.
4. Roll new points onto the Sculpey cylinder, then cut those claws off and add them gently to your baking surface. Repeat.
5. Someone is getting impatient!
6. Make more claws than you need. I'll only need eight for the jacana, but some claws will bend slightly as I put them on the baking surface, some might have fingerprints, some may be a little too flat, or some may not have a size match. Make extras! You can save the others for something else later on.
7. A jacana has very straight claws, but let's say I wanted to make curved ones. I would start with the little slug shape like before, but not cut it all the way through....
8. Instead, leave them a little attached to each other. The claws want to stick to the X-ACTO blade, so let them. Stroke the claws gently to work a curve into them. Try to do this symmetrically.
9. If you have trouble working small, you can make larger claws and cut the bases off after they're baked.
10. While the claws bake for 15 minutes at 250 degrees F, I turn my attention to the jacana's face. For now, it's just wool with an armature wire sticking out.
A little history:
I used to make a deep hole in the front of my birds' faces, score the base of the Sculpey beak, and glue it to the wool. This seemed to hold well enough, but I was not sure if the glue might eventually degrade, so I quit putting beaks on this way.
I sometimes make a beak with a wire loop sticking out of the base (my Atlantic Puffin has a beak like this). This kind of beak is attached with a combination of felting and glue, and is very secure. The downside of this method is that sometimes the beak does not flow smoothly into the forehead, or the beak has slight wiggle, and I don't like that.
This jacana has a strange sort of beak (see that weird yellow thing on her forehead?), so the best beak attachment method is to bake the Sculpey directly onto the armature. I like that this method requires no glue and has a more seamless appearance.
11. Place a wad of Sculpey onto the wire, and surround the wire completely. Make sure the wire is not close to the surface anywhere. Push the base gently into the wool so that the Sculpey grips it a bit.
12. I'm pleased with the general shape of the beak, so I start work on the blue cere. The small piece to the right is almost the right size. Use your X-ACTO blade to shape and move small pieces, otherwise your massive fingertips will smoosh them or leave prints.
13. ...Just like I did here! See those fingerprints? They've got to go. Use your blade to smooth them away and shape the beak.
14. Keep working on the beak with a tool until it pleases you. Try to keep the wool out of the Sculpey. Make nostril holes with the tip of your blade or with a needle.
15. What's that big blobby thing on a jacana's forehead? I don't know, but I'm going to copy it.
16. Placement is essential. Use the blade to do this part, just as though it were your own tiny, sharp finger.
17. Looking good! See how I've worked most of the fingerprints out? If you're still not 100 percent happy with your beak (or if you see some wool stuck in it), don't fret: painting will hide a multitude of sins.
18. Ready to bake! Make sure that all parts are gripping the wool firmly. That way, you won't need glue later.
*Added later* YES, you can totally bake the entire bird in the oven at 250 degrees F.
The first time I baked Sculpey onto wool, I fretted. I wondered if it would catch fire. I had my fire extinguisher ready, but nothing happened. I just don't think 250 degrees is hot enough to ignite (nor even to singe) wool.
That said, individual ovens are variable, so exercise caution and watch your wool in the oven. Do a test and be ready to put out a little fire, if you're nervous.
I've never had an issue with it, though.
19. Meanwhile, the claws have finished baking. Now to go through the pile to find the best ones of matching sizes.
20. I use Superglue to hold my claws in place, sometimes an initial gluing to get them positioned right, then a little more to smooth the transition into the toe. You have to hold each claw in position for about 45 seconds; there's so shortcuts here. Look at the bird from different angles before the glue sets to make sure the claws are not askew.
21. Go around and attach all the claws. This part is tedious, but the results are worth it!
22. You know how I make extra claws? Here are some extra eyes I had lying around. I hold them with needle-nosed pliers so they don't move while I paint them.
23. The rest is all painting and gluing. I like acrylic paints. Find images of your bird on Wiki and match the colors as best you can. The toenails are pale blue; so is the cere. The eyes are dark brown. Look at photos of the bird as you place the eyes; putting them in the wrong place can give your bird a weird expression.
24. The final touches include glossing the eye so it looks shiny and alive. I use this gloss. Snip off fuzzy wool outliers. Then it's done!